A major waterway recognized
and promoted for its economic potential; a revitalization effort for
a charmless downtown; rarely a destination, more often a point of departure;
overshadowed by more cosmopolitan and diverse urban centers; anchored
by institutions of higher learning; readily associated with a notable
author; sound a bit like the Bangor area? Perhaps, but it also
describes Ireland’s city of Limerick. Third in population but
first in gritty, crime saturated reputation, Limerick has been shamelessly
dismissed and cynically ridiculed by most travel guides and virtually
abandoned by the tourist industry. Introduced to most by native
scribe and Pulitzer Prize winner Frank McCourt’s dreary, depressing
and unflattering memoir, Angela’s Ashes, Limerick has
for years been fighting an uphill battle in nursing wounds inflicted
by a beleaguered identity and exaggerated crime statistics. Sensitive to its reputation
and the consequences and limitations it imposes, Limerick is no longer
passively idling but is now aggressively pursuing a relentless campaign
to showcase its innumerable cultural, historic and economic assets.
No longer the poor, threadbare cousin to modern, sophisticated Dublin
or art-chic Galway, Limerick is leaving the leprechauns and thatched
cottages to Killarney and Adare to serve up a portrait of a true working
Irish city offering culture, sports, history, shopping and, yes, a thriving
pub culture, to an as yet elusive tourist base. Despite all its
perceived faults, Limerick’s greatest flaw is that it has, until recently,
been criminally negligent in self-promotion. Countering its out
dated “Stab City” moniker with the tongue in cheek, more tourist
friendly “Fab City” Limerick is now giving its image a facelift.
Surrendering its switchblades in exchange for facts, statistic and adroit
marketing, Limerick is now poised to combat a past and reputation steeped
in poverty, violence and inferiority.
Now heralded an economic zone
second only to Dublin, Limerick has clearly turned a corner. With
literally hundreds of millions of euros invested in its academic and
economic infrastructure, it has successfully attracted and retained
blue chip multinationals that look to the city’s 15000 students as
fuel for future growth. A city that has been so readily discarded
as irrelevant has now been given a vote of confidence by a new employee
population that views Limerick as home to its families and a source
of quality education to its children.
This is the new Limerick.
No longer skulking and slinking about in murky urban shadows, the once
derided “Stab City” has shaken itself free from the encumbrances
that have for decades shackled it to biases and stereotypes. This
is the new Limerick; the new “Riverside City” Limerick that numbers
economic development, urban planning and tourism amongst its top priorities.
No longer paralyzed by a thuggish reputation, today’s Limerick projects
a confidence and spirited vision that is accelerating it from being
one of Ireland’s best kept secrets towards a well deserved visibility
and prominence.
Easily accessible by air, rail
and automobile, Limerick no longer hovers below the radar of Ireland’s
tourist trade. An exciting and colorful past introduced through
self-guided excursions or with the very capable assistance of the local
tourist authority beckons visitors to extended stays. The compactness
of the city makes its diversity of attractions readily accessible while
meandering amongst neighborhoods of colorful row houses inviting pubs
and prominent Georgian architecture. Well-manicured parks, gardens
and squares welcome with a calming appeal. Lush, shaded commons
or riverside walking paths are an excellent vantage point from which
to appreciate Limerick’s vitality, plan a day’s excursion or simply
recover from the previous night’s soiree.
With now over 1000 hotel beds,
options for accommodations in Limerick range from the luxurious to the
quaint but elegant. Dining choices are equally plentiful.
When once a night out meant little more than fast food and a cheesy
disco, Limerick now entices with international cuisine, multi-storied
super pubs, live music and a host of late night options. Coffee
bars and cafes are always a choice to satiate but seeking out the full
Irish breakfast of rashers, eggs, baked beans and kidney pie by accepting
the hospitality at a B & B or wandering to the Horse and Hound on
the corner of Cathedral Place and Mulgrave Street or maybe Dolans down
on the Dock Road or any number of other early morning pubs will sufficiently
fortify in preparation for a full Limerick day.
Limerick’s cultural renaissance
is in no greater evidence than in the restoration, preservation and
archaeological excavation of what is arguably its signature branding,
King John’s Castle. From the banks of the Shannon, the drum
towers and magnificent curtain walls have been a stalwart presence since
the 13th century. Recent history, however, has seen
this once proud edifice eroded, decayed and abused, surrendering to
neglect by a city once indifferent to a proud past. Fortunately
Limerick has rediscovered this treasure. Once again a stately
and commanding presence, its walls house museums, displays and archaeological
perspectives. A spacious courtyard once given over to squalid
row houses has been reclaimed by further preservation and provides some
excellent opportunities to view its now bustling protectorate.
City and regional history are also encapsulated in the nearby Limerick
Museum and a taste of Limerick’s regal Georgian past can be sampled
at the Georgian House and Garden Museum. Further, a tour of the
Hunt Museum offers the visitor a look at one of Ireland’s most extensive
private collections of art and antiques.
David A. Zelz
113 Merryman Road
Glenburn, ME 04401
884-4884 (h)
581-2364 (w)